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02:11
Day 5 : The final day of London Fashion Week pushes...
The final day of London Fashion Week saw designers push the boundaries in terms of style and substance. Home grown designer Amanda Wakeley returned to the catwalk with a collection of typically elegant dresses in hues of saffron, cinnamon and copper in jersey, satin and chiffon. Oversized gold and silver jewellery featured coils wrapped around the neck or waist . British – Brazilian duo Basso and Brooke showed a collection of traditional power prints with bold colourful graphics on draped dresses featuring sharp lines and sheer cut out panels. Erdem stunned the crowds with their Japanese inspired floral prints with simple make-up for a toned down look. Burberry was the biggest draw of London Fashion Week and the British power house said it was thrilled to be back in the capital for the 25th anniversary of the event. Fashion guru Anna Wintour graced the front row along with style icons Gwyneth Paltrow, Victoria Beckham and and emerging fashionista Emma Watson. The traditional trench coat was transformed into a thigh skimming mini in pale pink satin while silk chiffon and gauze featured heavily. Rose feathered leather coats came with ruched, skintight leggings and silk trousers, rolled up to show pastel socks with strappy cone-heeled platform sandals are the key trends to look out for this summer.
02:39
Issa's Daniella Helayel creates a storm at London...
Issa is always a packed out show - famed for its glamorous, flamboyant and memorable pieces - and this year is no exception, so t5m caught up with the woman behind it all, Daniella Helayel. Daniella jokes that she wishes she could sit in the front row of her shows and admire all of her hardwork, rather than standing in the back and making sure all the models are dressed! We managed to spot some fabulous colours whilst we were backstage - including lots of blacks, whites and gunmetals - as well as more tropical yellows and greens - Daniella explains that her inspiration for this season was the Grace Jones track, Hurricane, and that she wanted to create a hurricane effect collection. And, with Naomi Campbell and Chanel Iman modelling, Daniella has certainly whipped up a storm.
01:21
London Fashion Week regular Roisin Murphy on Issa,...
She’s known for topping best dressed polls as well as the charts, so no fashion week would be complete without style icon Roisin Murphy - so t5m caught up with the mum-to-be at Issa’s Sunday evening show. Having sat front row at the catwalk, Roisin was in awe of ’superstar’ Naomi Campbell as she wowed the crowds with a welcome return of the supermodel to runway. Normally a regular on the front rows, Roisin tells us that she is taking this season’s fashion week slowly, having only been to four or five shows - including the ‘lovely’ Charles Anastase and Pam Hogg. Unfortunately, due to her breathing class she will be missing out on Christopher Kane and Marios Schwab - but we’re sure London’s fashion darling will understand why she was absent! Roisin also expresses her gratitude that so many big names are returning to London for this fashion week - hoping that they will inject some much needed cash into the industry!
02:52
Paul Smith goes Congolese for London Fashion Week
The highlight of every fashion week, Paul Smith once again didn’t disappoint with his Spring/Summer show at London’s Claridges hotel last night. Based on glossy book ‘Gentlemen of Bacongo’, which celebrates Congolese ‘fashion-obsessed dandies’ known as sapeurs - Paul’s collection was vivid, vibrant and accompanied by a killer dancehall and ragga soundtrack. Although the title of the book suggests this inspiration would be better suited to menswear - Paul used this look as a theme for the entire collection - with banker striped shirts worn as dresses, and tan suits consisting of waistcoasts, collars and ties. Add to this some pork pie hats, skinny ties and brogues, and the models were transformed into vibrantly coloured androgynous dandies. We caught up with a very relaxed Paul Smith just before the show began, who explained to us that the collection was divided into menswear influenced pieces, and more feminine items. Dresses were carefully draped over the models - in earthy tones and tribal prints, with bras and bandeaus worn on the outside - which Paul suggests is what the girlfriends of these sapeur’s might wear! And of course, a few of Paul Smith’s signature strips managed to sneak in too!
03:31
Alice Temperley at London Fashion Week
Alice Temperley has taken her collection off the runway and into the world digital installation, and this season opted to show their Spring/Summer collection at trendy London venue, Sketch. The show had a ’soft launch’ in New York, but Alice bought her ‘travelling circus’ to London for it’s real debut, as Alice explains ‘London is where her heart is’. With a collection inspired by both the sinister and colourful aspects of twenties and thirties circuses - there was plenty of corsetry, structure and vertical designs, with large studdied diamond shapes and thick stripes. Standout looks include a double-strapped dress with tie details and attached belts, and a black ruffled one-shoulder evening gown. This is also the season of Temperley shoes - with a huge range of flats, heels and boots ranging from studded gladiator heels, to soft, pale pumps. We caught up with Alice at the opening of her exhibition, where she explained to t5m her decision to stop showing her collection on runways, instead opting for these directional and progressive installations. ‘Catwalks shows became less about the shows and more about the politics…people assume that because it’s fashion, it’s going on a catwalk’. To find out more about Alice Temperley, check out her exclusive interviews on her dedicated hub here on t5m.
02:27
Day 4 : Femininity makes a welcome return to the...
London went into a girly-girl frenzy with femininity making a welcome return to the catwalk. Christopher Kane led the style stakes with his hotly anticipated catwalk show. A knockout selection of gingham chiffon, fan pleating, puff sleeves, and thigh-split dresses stole the show. Kane’s latest ‘good girl, gone bad’ collection, shown yesterday, suggests 2010 could be his year. Kane’s hip style spliced with serious sex appeal now looks sufficiently polished to charm a heavy-hitting front row which included super sophisticated fashion guru Anna Wintour, king of style Sir Philip Green, uber-cool designer Donatella Versace and the gorgeous supermodel Natalia Vodianova. Luella Bartley unveiled a collection of sweet, girly prints and colourful dresses. Ultra girlish details came from heart shapes cut into dress bodices, big plastic hair bows and cute polka dots. Aiming to replace fashions love for black, Luella’s palette featured bright, cheerful sugar pinks, lemon and lipstick mreds. Jamie Winstone and Alexa Chung were amongst the celebs spotted at Luella. Layering and flimsy gowns worked in harmony to illustrate a new body silhouette at Meadham Kirchhoff with black patent lace-ups courtesy of Topshop. Meadham Kirchhoff sees us wearing bright pink tunics over double layered skirts in draped,pleated chiffon in neutral shades, perfect for those lazy summer days. Marios Schwab’s body-conscious designs translated into sophisticated three-part dresses with cropped, pleated silk tops layered over tunics Lastly, Jaegar followed the success of its first show in February with an airy mix of colour and a hint of vintage tailoring. The monochrome theme was echoed with three-tone patent stack-heel booties and cream and black knits. Certainly not for the shrinking violet.
02:16
Boho king Matthew Williamson returns to London Fashion...
Celebrity favourite Matthew Williamson is famed for his laid back, boho and beachy collections - whether it’s flirty smock dresses or floral print scarves, often sported by bohemian princesses Sienna Miller and Kate Moss. However, this season Matthew has made something of a departure from his signature look, taking inspiration from graphic art installations and translating them into sharply cut pencil skirts, boxy jackets and cut out dresses in gaudy metallics, bright lilacs and icy greys. Matthew explains that the coral looking print on his designs is the result of blowing up orchids until they look surreal - joking that he went a little bit ’scuba’ in the design process. Speaking exclusively to t5m, Matthew told us how honoured he was to be invited back to London Fashion Week by the British Fashion Council as part of it’s 25th anniversary celebration. Not only is he sentimental about his return to the city where he made his name, but it also means his parents can attend his shows and he can properly relax once his show is over.
01:44
Twiggy celebrates her birthday with Sass and Bide
The world’s most renowned supermodel, and one of British fashion’s greatest exports, Twiggy took some time out from her birthday celebrations and hectic fashion week schedule to talk to t5m about her best friend and favourite designers, Matthew Williamson. King of boho Matthew is returning to London Fashion Week as part of it’s 25th anniversary, and Twiggy explains she is there to support her good friend. She also tells us about great she thinks it is that so many of Britain’s most famed desgners are returning to fashion once more - including Burberry. But, as well as British designers, Twiggy also raves about Australian design duo Sass and Bide whose show she calls ’sensational’ - with their tonal colours embellished with Egyptian metals! The lady clearly has excellent taste!
01:51
T4's Jameela Jamil flies the flag for London Fashion...
London Fashion Week has been a vertitable hot bed of A-List guests this year - with the likes of Anna Wintour and Alexa Chung jetting in from across the Atlantic, to the Geldof sisters and Daisy Lowe appearing on nearly every front row. And so of course, t5m have caught up with some of the biggest names at this season’s fashion week - including T4 new girl, Jameela Jamil after Brazillian designer Issa’s Sunday evening show - which featured one of the few remaining supermodels, Naomi Campbell on the catwalk, in a range of itsy-bitsy swimsuits and elaborate floor length evening gowns. Jameela tells us she got a bit ‘over excited’ when Naomi came out, like a ‘teenage boy!’. We also compare notes between New York Fashion Week and our own with Jameela - who was fortunate enough to go to New York earlier this month. And although she had a brilliant time, she thinks London Fashion Week wins hands down with it’s ‘gritty, unpolished…slightly dirty’ feel, and we can’t help but agree! And what is Jameela hoping will trickle down to the high street next season? All the girlie frocks and padded shoulders - we think she has excellent taste! sloves the shoulder pad! feminine frocks - girls get girlie
02:52
Maxfactor's Pat McGrath is made up at Issa
It’s not just the clothes that get us all excited at London Fashion Week - it’s also the elaborate hair and make up which set the look for forthcoming beauty trends. So t5m caught up with MaxFactor Creative Director and international make up guru, Pat McGrath backstage at Issa, as she prepared the likes of Naomi Campbell and Chanel Iman for their catwalk moment. The Issa collection was inspired by a tropical storm - think deep greens, rich golds, molten metallics and blacks and greys - and Pat transferred this theme into the make up, with heavy, rich eye colour, sweeping black eyeliner and thick, dramatic eyelashes. Pat has been using MaxFactor ‘Lash Effect’ mascara, which she credits with creating the false eyelash effect on her models! She then compliments this eye make up with a simple ‘melon’ shade of nude and shimmering lip gloss.Pat even gives us tips on how to recreate this dramatic look at home - advising us to go easy on the eyeliner, but to experiment with colour! Asked to pick out her favourite trend from the shows so far, and Pat is torn between the romantic look we’ve seen at Louise Goldin and Jasper Conran, and the more, edgy and powerful looks at House of Holland and Issa herself…
 

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